PLAIN WEAVE | CALICO WEAVE | TABBY WEAVE | PLAIN WEAVES DERIVATIVE | PLAIN WEAVE STEP BY STEP CONSTRUCTION METHOD.

PLAIN WEAVE

The plain weave is also known as "Calico" or "Tabby" weaves. This weave is the simplest weave compare to other weaves. Minimum repeat of plain weave is ( 2 x 2 ). This weave have maximum binding points, causes more strength than other weaves. This weaves is use for muslin,blanket, canvas, dhoti, sari, suiting, shirting etc.

METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION

• First, we draw a graph like as ( 2 x 2 ), ( 3 x 3 ), ( 4 x 4 ) etc.
• Second, we show the interlacement as one warp up over the weft, then one weft up over the warp and so on.
• Third, we draw draft by seeing warp up/down in the weave.
• Fourth, we draw peg plan or lifting plan through the help of draft and weave.
• Fifth, we draw denting order.

Plain Weave Construction Method

PLAIN WEAVE DERIVATIVES

The plain weave may be modified by extending warp way or weft way or both ( warp and weft ) way. The extension of plain weave produces a rib effect in fabric. There are three types of plain weave derivatives as following:

• Warp Rib
• Weft Rib
• Matt/Basket/Hopsack

WARP RIB

It is the extension of plain weave in warp direction. That is called WARP RIB. Warp rib is normally used for warp faced construction. The warp rib also classified in two types according to warp up over the weft as follows:

• Regular Warp Rib ( 2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5, 6/6 etc. )
• Irregular Warp Rib ( 2/1, 3/1, 3/2, 4/1, 4/2, 4/3 etc. )

Warp Rib

WEFT RIB

It is the extension of plain weave in weft direction. That is called WEFT RIB. Warp rib is normally used for weft faced contruction. The weft rib also classified in two types according to weft up over the warp as follows:

• Regular Weft Rib ( 2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5, 6/6 etc. )
• Irregular Weft Rib ( 2/1, 3/1, 3/2, 4/1, 4/2, 4/3 etc. )

Matt Rib Weave

It is extension of plain weave in both (warp and weft) direction, that is called matt weave. This weave also known as ‘Basket Weave’ and ‘Hopsack Weave’. The matt weave also classified in four types as following:

• Regular Matt (3/3, 4/4, 5/5, etc.)
• Irregular Matt (3/2, 3/4, 4/2, 4/3, etc.)
• Reversible Matt [(2/3, 3/2), (4/2, 2/4), etc.]
• Non Reversible Matt [(2/3, 3/1), (4/1, 2/3), etc.]

CLASSIFICATION OF WEAVES | TYPES OF WEAVES | ORIGINAL WEAVES | DERIVATIVE WEAVES.

CLASSIFICATION OF WEAVE

1) Original Weave

          i) Plain Weave

          ii) Twill Weave

2) Derivative Weave

          i) Plain Derivatives

          ii) Twill Derivatives

CLASSIFICATION OF PLAIN DERIVATIVES

•      Rib

a)   Warp Rib

          i) Regular

              ii) Irregular

b)   Weft Rib

          i) Regular

              ii) Irregular

 

• Matt/Basket/Hopsack

a)   Regular

b)   Irregular

c)   Reversible

d)   Non-Reversible

WARP RIB

It is the extension of plain weave in warp direction. That is called WARP RIB.

WEFT RIB

It is the extension of plain weave in weft direction. That is called WEFT RIB.

MATT

It is the extension of plain weave in both warp and weft direction. That is called MATT.

Fabric Structure And Analysis Model Paper | FSA Model Paper Dec-2019 | FSA Model Paper Solution | Textile Technology.

FABRIC STRUCTURE AND ANALYSIS MODEL PAPER DEC-2019

Question 1(a) Primary weaves with design.

Primary Weaves:

Weave is design, which is incorporated on loom machine by the interlacement of warp and weft, and the process of interlacement is called weaving. There are three types of primary weaves:

1. Plain Weave
2. Twill Weave
3. Satin Weave

Question 1(b) Ways of ornamenting plain fabric.

Ways of ornamentation of plain fabric:

Various types of plain weave are commonly used in the market. They are different in outlook, they are made by same design but outlook changed by using ornamentation technique. Some ornamentation techniques are as below:

• By using fine count yarn.
• By using coarse count yarn.
• By using different colours thread.
• By using thread on warp and weft may be different-different colours and count.
• By using fancy slub yarns.
• By using different twisted yarn.
• By using different textile material.
  

Question 1(c) Crepe weaves and their construction.

Crepe Weave And Their Construction:

In crepe weave consists an useful variety of simple weaves. Due to their pebbly or rough surface, crepe weaves also known as “Crape” or “Oatmeal” fabrics. Highly twisted yarn (crepe yarn) or crepe weave used for producing crepe effect on fabric. Crepe weave used with other elementary weaves. There are 4 types of crepe weaves:

1. Crepe with sateen weave.
2. Crepe with another weave.
3. Combination of plain weave.
4. Crepe by reversing method.

1. Crepe with sateen weave:

In this weave (Crepe with sateen weave), we draw a basic sateen weave and after shown warp up over the weft or weft up over the warp. Weave and their method of construction are as following: 

Method of construction:

• We draw an area (5x5).
• We choose a move nos. 3.
• We choose 3 warp up and 2 weft up.
• We fill basic sateen weave by using move nos.3.
• We shown 3 warp up and 2 weft up.
• We draw draft by using warp working of weave.
• We draw peg plan by using draft and weave.

Question 2(a) Make one repeat of Huck-a back.

Huck-a-back weave:

Huck-A-Back weaves are basically toweling weaves. They are constructed by alternatively combining a float with plain weave. This weaves are suitable for producing heavy textures. This weave have two parts, first is plain weave, which provides more strength to the fabrics and second is long float, which provide more moisture absorbency to the fabric. This weave is use cotton and linen fabric, towel and glass cloth.

Method of construction:

• We draw an area (10x10).
• We divide the area into 4 parts.
• We fill the motiff in 1^st and 3^rd part.
• We fill the plain weave in 2^nd and 4^th part.
• We draw draft by using warp working of weave.
• We draw peg plan by using draft and weave.

 

Question 2(b) Make one repeat of Honeycomb.

Honeycomb weave:

The honeycomb terms used for these weaves, which are partial resemblance honeycomb cells of bees. These weaves produce ridges and hollows on texture. Warp and weft threads produce a floats bothside of fabric, which gives moisture absorbent property to the fabric. There are two types of honeycomb weave:

1. Ordinary/Simple Honeycomb Weave
2. Brighton Honeycomb Weave

Simple Honeycomb Weave

In this weave ( Simple Honeycomb Weave ), we draw two diagonal lines across one-another and after draw a motiff, which id divided in two parts. Weave and their method of construction are as following:

Method of construction:

• We draw an area (10x10).
• We draw a diagonal line shown d.green.
• We draw 2^nd diagonal line shown light green.
• We fill one motif (half upper side and half lower side) leaving 1 stitching point shown white colour.
• We draw draft by using warp working of weave.
• We draw peg plan by using draft and weave.

Question 2(c) Make one repeat of Mockleno.

Mockleno weave:

Mock leno also known as imitation lenos. Mock leno are a variety of weaves of ordinary construction, which produce effects that similar in appearance to the gauze or leno styles obtained with the help of doup mounting. These weaves are generally produced in combination with plain, twill, satin or other simple.

Use: Canvas clothes, curtains, light dress fabrics, blouses aprons etc.

Method of construction:

• We draw an area (8x8).
• We divide the area into 4 parts.
• We fill the motiff in 1^st and 3^rd part.
• We fill the reverse weave of 1^st and 2^nd part in 3rd^nd and 4^th part.
• We draw draft by using warp working of weave.
• We draw peg plan by using draft and weave.

Q3(a) Describe Pointed Twill Weaves.

Q3(b) Describe Herringbone Twill Weaves.

Q3(c) Describe Broken Twill Weaves.

Question 4(a) Draft and their types.

Draft:

Draft indicates the number of healds used to produce the design (weave). It shown which heald is up at the time of pick insertion.

Types of draft: The various types of draft as following:

1. Straight Draft
2. Pointed Draft
3. Broken Draft
4. Curved Draft

Straight Draft:

This is the most commonly used draft. It is the simplest draft of all types of draft plans. In this draft the drafting order progresses successively from first to last heald frame.

Pointed Draft:

This is similar to straight draft. It is suitable for weaves such as pointed twill, diamond weaves and ordinary types of honeycomb weaves.

Broken Draft:

A broken draft almost resembles the pointed draft. However the pointed effect is broken. This type of draft is suitable for herringbone twill weaves.

Question 4(b) Determination of warp and weft.

Any woven fabric produce by interlacement of two types of yarn known as warp yarn and weft yarn.

Warp Yarn: The yarn, which is parallel to the selvedge are called warp yarn. This yarn also known as ends.

Weft Yarn: The yarn, which is across to the selvedge are called weft yarn. This yarn also known as picks.

Question 4(c) Derivatives of plain weave.

Plain Weave Derivatives:

The plain weave may be modified by extending warp way or weft way or both (warp and weft) way. The extension of plain weave produces a rib effect in fabric. There are three types of plain weave derivatives as following:

1. Warp Rib
2. Weft Rib
3. Matt/Basket/Hopsack

Warp Rib: It is extension of plain weave in warp direction, that is called warp rib. Warp rib is normally used for warp faced construction. The warp rib also classified in two types according to warp up over the weft as following:

• Regular Warp Rib (2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5 etc.)
• Irregular Warp Rib (2/1,3/1, 3/2, 4/1 etc.)

Weft Rib: It is extension of plain weave in weft direction, that is called weft rib. Weft rib is normally used for weft faced construction. The weft rib also classified in two types according to weft up over the warp as following:

• Regular Weft Rib (2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5 etc.)

• Irregular Weft Rib (2/1,3/1, 3/2, 4/1 etc.)

Matt Weave: It is extension of plain weave in both (warp and weft) direction, that is called matt weave. This weave also known as ‘Basket Weave’ and ‘Hopsack Weave’. The matt weave also classified in four types as following:

• Regular Matt

• Irregular Matt

• Reversible Matt

• Non- Reversible Matt

Question 5(a) Design and its repeat.

Design: Design is the disposition of lines. The design indicates the interlacement of warp and weft threads in the repeat of the design. Those design, which is applied on textile material through printing, interlacement, knitting etc., that is called Textile design.

Question 5(b) Formula for calculating weight of fabric.

GSM: GSM stands for " Grams per Square Metre ". Generally we use GSM cutter for cheking GSM of any fabric. we also calculate GSM of woven fabric by using formula as below:

Question 5(c) Fabric analysis particulars.

Fabric analysis particulars: The fabric analysis particular are as following:

1. Minimum Repeat
2. Weave
3. Draft
4. Peg Plan
5. Denting Order

Minimum Repeat: Minimum repeat is a minimum area, in which a complete design can be shown. For example plain weave minimum area is (2x2), twill weave minimum area is (3x3) etc.

Weave: Weave is a design, which is incorporated on loom machine by interlacement of warp and weft. This process is called Weaving.

Draft: Draft indicates the number of healds to be used to produce a design.

Peg Plan: It shows the selection of healds to be raised or lowered at each insertion of picks.

Denting Order: Denting order is the number of ends pass through a dent of reed. There are two to five ends pass through a dent of reed.

COMBINED TWILL WEAVE | TYPES OF COMBINE TWILL WEAVE | END TO END COMBINATION | PICK TO PICK COMBINATION | COMBINE TWILL WEAVE ON GRAPH.

COMBINE TWILL WEAVE

In combined twill weave two different-different twill weave combined together alternatively and produced combine twill weave. This weave is mostly used in worsted industry foe producing compact textures in garment fabric. There are two methods used to produce combine twill weave are as following:

1. End to end combination
2. Pick to pick combination

   

1. End-To-End Combination

End-To-End Combination

Method Of Construction

• First, we draw two basic twill weave in minimum area ( 6 x 6 ) and shown different-different warp up and warp down in both weave.
• Second, we draw an area ( 12 x 6 ), because both weave combine end to end.
• Third, we show both twill weave on alternative ends.
• Fourth, we draw an area for draft and fill it according to warp working in weave.
• Fifth, we draw an area for peg-plan and fill it according to weave and draft plan.

2. Pick-To-Pick Combination

Pick-To-Pick Combination

Method Of Construction

• First, we draw two basic twill weave in minimum area ( 6 x 6 ) and shown different-different warp up and warp down in both weave.
• Second, we draw an area ( 6 x 12 ), because both weave combine pick to pick.
• Third, we show both twill weave on alternative picks.
• Fourth, we draw an area for draft and fill it according to warp working in weave.
• Fifth, we draw an area for peg-plan and fill it according to weave and draft plan.

CREPE WEAVE | CRAPE WEAVE | TYPES OF CREPE WEAVE | CREPE WEAVE CONSTRUCTION METHOD | CREPE WEAVE STEP BY STEP CONSTRUCTION.

CREPE WEAVE

In crepe weave consists an useful variety of simple weaves. Due to their pebbly and rough surfaces, crepe weave also known as "Crape" or "Oatmeal" fabrics. Highly twisted yarns ( crepe yarns ) or crepe weave used for producing crepe effects on fabrics. Crepe weave used with other elementary weaves.

Crepe Weave

Crepe Weave

Crepe Weave

Classification Of Crepe Weave

Crepe weave are classified in four parts as following:

1. Crepe with sateen weave
2. Crepe with another weave
3. Combination of plain weave
4. Crepe by reversing method

1. Crepe With Sateen Weave

Method of construction

Method Of Construction

• First, we draw an minimum area such as ( 5 x 5 ).
• Second, we fill sateen weave with move nos. 3.
• Third, we show 3/2 on each warp yarn.
• Fourth, we draw an area for draft and fill it according to warp working in weave.
• Fifth, we draw an area for peg-plan and fill it according to weave and draft plan.

2. Crepe With Another Weave

Method Of Construction

Method Of Construction

• First, we draw two sateen weave area such as ( 7 x 7 ) with different-different move number.
• Second, we draw a minimum repeat area ( 7 x 7 ).
• Third, we fill both sateen weave one-by-one.
• Fourth, we draw an area for draft and fill it according to warp working in weave.
• Fifth, we draw an area for peg-plan and fill it according to weave and draft plan.

3. Combination Of Plain Weave

Method Of Construction

Method Of Construction

• First, we draw an area ( 14 x 14 ).
• Second, we draw plain weave on alternate warp thread.
• Third, we fill sateen weave with move nos.3 on alternate warp thread and alternate weft thread.
• Fourth, we draw an area for draft and fill it according to warp working in weave.
• Fifth, we draw an area for peg-plan and fill it according to weave and draft plan.

4. Crepe By Reversing Method

Method Of Construction

Method Of Construction

• First, we draw two sateen weave area such as ( 7 x 7 ) with different-different move number.
• Second, we draw a minimum repeat area ( 7 x 7 ).
• Third, we fill both sateen weave one-by-one.
• Fourth, we draw an area for draft and fill it according to warp working in weave.
• Fifth, we draw an area for peg-plan and fill it according to weave and draft plan.

TWILL WEAVE | CLASSIFICATION OF TWILL WEAVE | STRAIGHT TWILL WEAVE | POINTED TWILL WEAVE.

TWILL WEAVE

Twill weave is use for producing diagonal effects. Twill weave order of interlacing causes diagonal lines to be form in the cloth. The minimum repeat of twill weave is ( 3 x 3 ).

The basic features of twill weave are as below:

• They form diagonal lines.
• More ends per unit area and more picks per unit area comparatively plain weave.
• Less binding points comparatively plain weave.
• More cloth thickness and mass per unit area.

Classification Of Twill Weave

Twill weave are classified in two parts as following:

1. Straight Twill Weave
2. Pointed Twill Weave

1. Straight Twill Weave

Straight twill weave also known as plain, simple or ordinary twill weave. It forms diagonal lines almost 45 degree angle in cloth. It may be warp face, weft face or balances weave. This weave also divided into two parts as following:

a) Right Handed Twill Weave

b) Left Handed Twill Weave

2. Pointed Twill Weave

Pointed twill weave also known as Zig-Zag twill weave. In this weave, the direction of twill lines changes alternatively. For example one from left to right and then right to left and so on.

Types Of Pointed Twill Weave

• Regular Pointed Twill Weave
• Irregular Pointed Twill Weave

Minimum Repeat of Regular pointed twill weave is ( 4 x 3 ) and irregular pointed twill weave is ( 6 x 3 ).

Condition Of Pointed Twill Weave

The condition of pointed twill weave is that it always finish on second pick.

e/p ≠ whole number for regular pointed.( 4 x 3 )

e/p = whole number for irregular pointed.( 6 x 3 )

Condition Of Pointed Twill Weave

FABRIC STRUCTURE AND ANALYSIS | GENERAL TERMS OF FABRIC STRUCTURE AND ANALYSIS | ELEMENTS OF FABRIC STRUCTURE AND ANALYSIS | PARTICULAR OF FABRIC STRUCTURE AND ANALYSIS.

GENERAL TERMS OF FABRIC STRUCTURE AND ANALYSIS  

DESIGN

Design is the dispositions of lines. The design indicates the interlacement of warp and weft threads in the repeat of the design. That is called DESIGN. For example we draw a circular line that is called circle, draw some lines and produce many types of structure like as square, rectangle, star, cube etc. all structure are a design.

Design

TEXTILE DESIGN

Those designs which is applied on textile material through printing, interlacement etc. that is called TEXTILE DESIGN.

Textile Design

SELVEDGE

Selvedge is the corner part of fabric, which have more strength and more ends per inch (EPI).

Selvedge

WARP

Those yarn which is parallel to the selvedge of fabric that is called WARP.

Warp Yarn

WEFT

Those yarn which is across to the selvedge of fabric that is called WEFT.

Weft Yarn

THREADING

The process of passing ends through the mail eye of dent that is called THREADING.

Threading

ELEMENTS OF FABRIC STRUCTURE AND ANALYSIS

• Minimum Repeat
• Weave
• Draft
• Peg Plan / Lifting Plan
• Denting Order

MINIMUM REPEAT

Minimum repeat is a minimum area in which a complete design can be shown. For example plain weave minimum repeat is ( 2 x 2 ), twill weave minimum repeat is ( 3 x 3 ) etc.

WEAVE

Weave is a design, which is incorporated on loom machine by interlacement of warp and weft. This process is called WEAVING.

DRAFT

Draft indicates the number of healds to be used to produce a design.

PEG PLAN / LIFTING PLAN

It shows the selection of healds to be raised or lowered at each insertion of picks.

DENTING ORDER

Denting order is the number of ends pass through a dent of the reed. There are two to five ends pass through a dent.