Fabric Structure And Analysis Model Paper | FSA Model Paper Dec-2019 | FSA Model Paper Solution | Textile Technology.

FABRIC STRUCTURE AND ANALYSIS MODEL PAPER DEC-2019

Question 1(a) Primary weaves with design.

Primary Weaves:

Weave is design, which is incorporated on loom machine by the interlacement of warp and weft, and the process of interlacement is called weaving. There are three types of primary weaves:

1. Plain Weave
2. Twill Weave
3. Satin Weave

Question 1(b) Ways of ornamenting plain fabric.

Ways of ornamentation of plain fabric:

Various types of plain weave are commonly used in the market. They are different in outlook, they are made by same design but outlook changed by using ornamentation technique. Some ornamentation techniques are as below:

• By using fine count yarn.
• By using coarse count yarn.
• By using different colours thread.
• By using thread on warp and weft may be different-different colours and count.
• By using fancy slub yarns.
• By using different twisted yarn.
• By using different textile material.
  

Question 1(c) Crepe weaves and their construction.

Crepe Weave And Their Construction:

In crepe weave consists an useful variety of simple weaves. Due to their pebbly or rough surface, crepe weaves also known as “Crape” or “Oatmeal” fabrics. Highly twisted yarn (crepe yarn) or crepe weave used for producing crepe effect on fabric. Crepe weave used with other elementary weaves. There are 4 types of crepe weaves:

1. Crepe with sateen weave.
2. Crepe with another weave.
3. Combination of plain weave.
4. Crepe by reversing method.

1. Crepe with sateen weave:

In this weave (Crepe with sateen weave), we draw a basic sateen weave and after shown warp up over the weft or weft up over the warp. Weave and their method of construction are as following: 

Method of construction:

• We draw an area (5x5).
• We choose a move nos. 3.
• We choose 3 warp up and 2 weft up.
• We fill basic sateen weave by using move nos.3.
• We shown 3 warp up and 2 weft up.
• We draw draft by using warp working of weave.
• We draw peg plan by using draft and weave.

Question 2(a) Make one repeat of Huck-a back.

Huck-a-back weave:

Huck-A-Back weaves are basically toweling weaves. They are constructed by alternatively combining a float with plain weave. This weaves are suitable for producing heavy textures. This weave have two parts, first is plain weave, which provides more strength to the fabrics and second is long float, which provide more moisture absorbency to the fabric. This weave is use cotton and linen fabric, towel and glass cloth.

Method of construction:

• We draw an area (10x10).
• We divide the area into 4 parts.
• We fill the motiff in 1^st and 3^rd part.
• We fill the plain weave in 2^nd and 4^th part.
• We draw draft by using warp working of weave.
• We draw peg plan by using draft and weave.

 

Question 2(b) Make one repeat of Honeycomb.

Honeycomb weave:

The honeycomb terms used for these weaves, which are partial resemblance honeycomb cells of bees. These weaves produce ridges and hollows on texture. Warp and weft threads produce a floats bothside of fabric, which gives moisture absorbent property to the fabric. There are two types of honeycomb weave:

1. Ordinary/Simple Honeycomb Weave
2. Brighton Honeycomb Weave

Simple Honeycomb Weave

In this weave ( Simple Honeycomb Weave ), we draw two diagonal lines across one-another and after draw a motiff, which id divided in two parts. Weave and their method of construction are as following:

Method of construction:

• We draw an area (10x10).
• We draw a diagonal line shown d.green.
• We draw 2^nd diagonal line shown light green.
• We fill one motif (half upper side and half lower side) leaving 1 stitching point shown white colour.
• We draw draft by using warp working of weave.
• We draw peg plan by using draft and weave.

Question 2(c) Make one repeat of Mockleno.

Mockleno weave:

Mock leno also known as imitation lenos. Mock leno are a variety of weaves of ordinary construction, which produce effects that similar in appearance to the gauze or leno styles obtained with the help of doup mounting. These weaves are generally produced in combination with plain, twill, satin or other simple.

Use: Canvas clothes, curtains, light dress fabrics, blouses aprons etc.

Method of construction:

• We draw an area (8x8).
• We divide the area into 4 parts.
• We fill the motiff in 1^st and 3^rd part.
• We fill the reverse weave of 1^st and 2^nd part in 3rd^nd and 4^th part.
• We draw draft by using warp working of weave.
• We draw peg plan by using draft and weave.

Q3(a) Describe Pointed Twill Weaves.

Q3(b) Describe Herringbone Twill Weaves.

Q3(c) Describe Broken Twill Weaves.

Question 4(a) Draft and their types.

Draft:

Draft indicates the number of healds used to produce the design (weave). It shown which heald is up at the time of pick insertion.

Types of draft: The various types of draft as following:

1. Straight Draft
2. Pointed Draft
3. Broken Draft
4. Curved Draft

Straight Draft:

This is the most commonly used draft. It is the simplest draft of all types of draft plans. In this draft the drafting order progresses successively from first to last heald frame.

Pointed Draft:

This is similar to straight draft. It is suitable for weaves such as pointed twill, diamond weaves and ordinary types of honeycomb weaves.

Broken Draft:

A broken draft almost resembles the pointed draft. However the pointed effect is broken. This type of draft is suitable for herringbone twill weaves.

Question 4(b) Determination of warp and weft.

Any woven fabric produce by interlacement of two types of yarn known as warp yarn and weft yarn.

Warp Yarn: The yarn, which is parallel to the selvedge are called warp yarn. This yarn also known as ends.

Weft Yarn: The yarn, which is across to the selvedge are called weft yarn. This yarn also known as picks.

Question 4(c) Derivatives of plain weave.

Plain Weave Derivatives:

The plain weave may be modified by extending warp way or weft way or both (warp and weft) way. The extension of plain weave produces a rib effect in fabric. There are three types of plain weave derivatives as following:

1. Warp Rib
2. Weft Rib
3. Matt/Basket/Hopsack

Warp Rib: It is extension of plain weave in warp direction, that is called warp rib. Warp rib is normally used for warp faced construction. The warp rib also classified in two types according to warp up over the weft as following:

• Regular Warp Rib (2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5 etc.)
• Irregular Warp Rib (2/1,3/1, 3/2, 4/1 etc.)

Weft Rib: It is extension of plain weave in weft direction, that is called weft rib. Weft rib is normally used for weft faced construction. The weft rib also classified in two types according to weft up over the warp as following:

• Regular Weft Rib (2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5 etc.)

• Irregular Weft Rib (2/1,3/1, 3/2, 4/1 etc.)

Matt Weave: It is extension of plain weave in both (warp and weft) direction, that is called matt weave. This weave also known as ‘Basket Weave’ and ‘Hopsack Weave’. The matt weave also classified in four types as following:

• Regular Matt

• Irregular Matt

• Reversible Matt

• Non- Reversible Matt

Question 5(a) Design and its repeat.

Design: Design is the disposition of lines. The design indicates the interlacement of warp and weft threads in the repeat of the design. Those design, which is applied on textile material through printing, interlacement, knitting etc., that is called Textile design.

Question 5(b) Formula for calculating weight of fabric.

GSM: GSM stands for " Grams per Square Metre ". Generally we use GSM cutter for cheking GSM of any fabric. we also calculate GSM of woven fabric by using formula as below:

Question 5(c) Fabric analysis particulars.

Fabric analysis particulars: The fabric analysis particular are as following:

1. Minimum Repeat
2. Weave
3. Draft
4. Peg Plan
5. Denting Order

Minimum Repeat: Minimum repeat is a minimum area, in which a complete design can be shown. For example plain weave minimum area is (2x2), twill weave minimum area is (3x3) etc.

Weave: Weave is a design, which is incorporated on loom machine by interlacement of warp and weft. This process is called Weaving.

Draft: Draft indicates the number of healds to be used to produce a design.

Peg Plan: It shows the selection of healds to be raised or lowered at each insertion of picks.

Denting Order: Denting order is the number of ends pass through a dent of reed. There are two to five ends pass through a dent of reed.